""I am proud to be Baltistani""

th of K2, the world's second highest mountain. It is inhabited principally by the Balti people of Tibetan descent. Baltistan consisted of small independent valley states that were connected to each other through blood relationships of the rulers, called rajas, trade, common beliefs and strong cultural and language bonds. These states were subjugated by force by the Dogra rulers of Kashmir in the nineteenth century. In 1947 when India and Pakistan gained independence, Baltistan was still part of Kashmir. The people of Baltistan being predominantly Muslims revolted against the Dogra rulers and after a struggle lasting a year became independent. Along with Gilgit, it is now claimed by Pakistan as the region of Gilgit-Baltistan (formerly Northern Areas). Its links with Kashmir as a subjugated people today continue to be an impediment in granting its population citizenship of Pakistan. The Kargil district of this region is located in the north of Indian-administered Kashmir, while the districts of Skardu and Ganche, whose main town is Skardu, are located in the Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan region. The region has the highest peaks of the Karakoram, including K2. GEOGRAPHY
Baltistan forms the west extremity of Tibet, whose natural limits here are the Indus from its abrupt southward bend in 74 45 E., and the mountains to the north and west, separating a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the fiercer A***n tribes beyond. Muslim writers about the 16th century speak of Baltistan as Little Tibet, and of Ladakh as Great Tibet, thus ignoring the really Great Tibet altogether. The Balti call Gilgit a Tibet, and Dr Leitner says that the Chilasi call themselves But or Tibetans; but although these districts may have been overrun by the Tibetans, or have received rulers of that race, the ethnological frontier coincides with the geographical one given. Baltistan is a mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being gneiss. In the north is the Baltoro Glacier, the largest out of the arctic regions, 35 miles (56 km) long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 25,000 ft (7,600 m) and to the north 28,265 ft (8,615 m). The Indus, as in Lower Ladakh, runs in a narrow gorge, widening for nearly 20 m. The capital, Skardu, a scattered collection of houses, stands here, perched on a rock 7,250 ft (2,210 m). above the sea. The house roofs are flat, occupied only in part by a second storey, the remaining space being devoted to drying apricots, the chief staple of the main valley, which supports little cultivation. But the rapid slope westwards is seen generally in the vegetation. Birch, plane, spruce and Pinus wallichiana appear; the fruits are finer, including pomegranate, pear, peach, vine and melon, and where irrigation is available, as in the North Shigar, and at the deltas of the tributary valleys, the crops are more luxuriant and varied. On 29 August 2009 the Government of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan announced the creation of Gilgit-Baltistan, a new province, with Gilgitcity as its capital. Skardu is the largest city of the new province. History
Tibetan Khampa and Dardic tribes came to Baltistan prior to civilisation, and these groups eventually settled down, creating the Balti people. It was believed that the Balti people came under the sphere of influence from the kingdom of Zhang Zhung. Most of the rich and affluent Balti people are of Arabic descent.[2]
The modern world Balti people, however, are not all from Tibetan stock. With the passage of time, many other tribes namely, Shins, Yashkuns (Dardic people), Kashmiris (called Khache in local language), Arabs (mostly Sayeds), Persian (Sufis) and Turks (especially Uygurs from central Asia) made their enroads to Baltistan and gradually merged with the local population. After second or third generation they became Baltis. Today, in Skardu (land of Sakas), the capital of Baltistan region of Pakistan, the most hardened Baltis are outsiders namely Kashmiris or Dard tribes. Baltistan came under the control of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. Under Tibetan cultural influence, the Bön and Animist Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism from Indian Buddhism. Religious artefacts such as the Gompas and Chörtens were erected, and Lamas played an important role in the lives of the Baltis. History of Islam in Baltistan starts with arrival of Ameer Kabeer Syed Ali Hamadani (A legendary [Sufi] saint of Muslim history) from Iran during 15th century. He was followed by other Sufi legends afterwards, such as Shah Syed Muhammad Noorbaksh & Syed Shansuddin Iraqi. Soon the whole region converted to Nurbakhshi order of Islamic Sufism. During the start of 19th century, however, the predominant population converted to other Islamic schools of thought such as Shias and Sunnis. The pure Islamic (Nurkbakhsi) sect is still there. Today, the Baltis are; Shi'a denomination (52%), Sofia Nurbakhshia (45%), and Sunni-Ahl al-Hadith sect (3%). With the decline of power of Central Tibet during the 11th century, the Balti people came under the control of the local ruling families namely Maqpon in Skardu, Amacha in Shigar and Yabgoin Khaplu. They fostered a close relationship with Ladakh in the east. Similar linguistic and cultural characteristics of Baltiyul and Ladakh helped in forging an administrative unit that existed until 1948 when Balties revolted against the Dogras and joined Pakistan. The Dogra Maharajas of Jammu kept the administrative unit intact and converted it into a province called Ladakh Wazarat (a province composed of Baltistan, central Ladakh, Purik, Zanskar and Changthang areas). Skardu, became the winter capital of the province while Leh, capital of Central Ladakh became the summer capital. The province was divided into three districts namely Skardu, Leh and Kargil. Culture
Centuries of Tibetan, Islamic and Indian influence have shaped the Balti culture into its modern form. Islam plays an important role in Balti culture. Tibetan influence can be seen in its architecture, where houses with flat roof painted white and sloping inwards are built, and the most notable artifacts of the Balti/Ladakhi architecture include Kharpoche in Skardu, Khapulo Khar in Khapulo, Chakchan and Shigar Khanqah and Baltit Fort of Hunza. Like the Ladakhi Muslim architectures, older mosques show a mix of Iranian and Tibetan architecture, although strong Iranian and modern influences can be seen in the newer mosques. Little remains of the pre-Islamic Buddhist culture of Baltistan, largely destroyed and supplaced by the dominant Punjabi and Iranian culture which arrived with Islam; this can be evidenced in the near-extinction of traditional Balti festivals such as Mephang, Mindok Ltadmo and Srup Lha. Folk literature such as those of Lha Kesar and works of Ali Sher Khan Anchan prevail among the Balti literature, which has experienced a revival in recent years. Although climatic conditions are harsh and inhospitable, the village people of Baltistan are among the most friendly and hospitable of mountain peoples in Pakistan. Evolved out of 106 years of slavery under the Dogra rulers and innumerable decades under local despotic Rajas, the predominant population of today’s Baltistan is religiously and ethnically homogeneous. Baltistan is proud of her thousands of years of rich civilization. Her architecture, costumes, cuisines, festivals, dances, language, script and epics make her unique among her neighbors, especially within the contemporary Northern Areas. The local culture is a blend of that of Ladakhi and Islamic rituals. Since partition, the residents of Baltistan have remained essentially people of Baltistan’s soil. They are devout Muslims, and in effect including two generations borne since the annexation and occupation of Baltistan by India have never distanced themselves from the cultural and linguistic ties to what ninety percent of the Baltis regard as Ladakhi cultural and linguistic heritage. Of late, modern Balti scholars such as Ghulam Hassan Lobsang, Ghulam Hassan Hasni, Syed Abbas Kazmi and Mohammad Senge Tshering Hasnain have contributed greatly to the re-discovery of the Balti culture. Plans for the excavation of an ancient monastery and the preservation of the Buddha rock are planned, as the Balti go through a process of merging their culture with those of their brethren in Ladakh. Recently a book (Balti Tamlo) has been produced by Ghulam Hassan Hasni that contains 900 Balti/Ladakhi proverbs, idioms and expressions. Further, books have been written by authors including Hassan Lobsang on local Bön traditions and pre-Buddhist Baltiyul. Lifestyle
Sandwiched between the Karakoram, the Himalayan and Ladakh mountain ranges, the Baltistan region is highly valued for its strategic geo-political location. Its trade routes in the past have served as economic lifelines for the inhabitants of this region, who bartered goods while visiting Xinjiang, China, Central Asia, the Indian Sub-continent, Central Tibet and beyond. Today, the region is sandwiched between three nuclear powers of Asia: China in the north, India in the east and south, and Pakistan in west. Baltistan contains some of the highest mountains and longest glaciers in the world. Further, the rivers and streams have formed numerous valleys over the course of time, which are inhabited and cultivated by the residents. Innumerable rivers and rivulets including Shyok, Siachen, Saltoro, Suru, Shingo and Shigar rivers, augment the mighty Indus River, which after bisecting Baltistan enters Gilgit. Glacial lakes are abundant in Baltistan and are of high touristic value. Baltistan possesses approximately fifty peaks with heights of more than 20,000 feet (6,100 m) above sea level. Mighty K2 - the second highest peak in the world at 8,611 meters in height – is situated here, overlooking theShigar valley. The glaciers - the longest in the world outside the Polar Regions, reaching to a length of 90 kilometers – surround Baltistan in the north and west directions, separating her from China and Gilgit. Baltistan has four seasons; a short spring, summer and autumn, with a longer winter. As winters approach, temperatures drop to –25 degrees Celsius in the residential villages and towns. Rainfall is less than 300 millimeters per annum as the region falls outside the monsoon zone. Vegetation is scarce in Baltistan and found only in areas fed by streams and rivulets. The Deosai Plains, also called Byarsa in Balti, around 5,400 square kilometers of sheer plateau at an elevation of 14,000 feet (4,300 m) from sea level, are a refuge for the most endangered wildlife species both flora and fauna, including the magnificent snow leopard. Skardu, the urban capital of Baltistan, is located at 7,400 feet (2,300 m) above sea level. Formerly the capital of the Rajas of Skardo, it is the widest valley in the whole of Karakoram mountain belt, and is the site of the longest airplane runway at such an elevation. Skardu or Skardois a major tourist attraction in Pakistan, attracting thousands of visitors and tourist both domestically and from abroad, notably by Europeans. Several historical trade routes under utilization by Baltis for thousands of years open towards Leh, Kargil, Srinagar, Simla, Manali, Yarkand(to China through Karakoram Pass of India), and Tibet. However since the war between Pakistan and India in 1971, the local population has not been able to access the trading regions in the east and north, which has had a significant impact on the local economy. Subsequent political events in Pakistan, the unresolved status of Jammu and Kashmir, and red tapism in government policies and lack of federal funds considering Pakistan's current fiscal deficit have hampered development of this tourist friendly region. Baltistan has remained one of the most poverty stricken areas within Pakistan, a position further made difficult by the location of region and difficulties in reaching it by road. The establishment of a runway and the Karakoram Highway in cooperation with China has drastically improved the situation in the region but more needs to be done in order to bring the region at par with other parts of the country. Subsidized supplies from other parts of the country are still the bulk source of essential goods when the region is cut off for months due to avalanches and landslides affecting the only road linking Baltistan to rest of Pakistan. This road was only built in 1982, prior to which the only source of transportation to Baltistan (which has an area three times the size of the Kashmir Valley) was by air, and dependent on good weather. The government of Pakistan, has signed several agreements with China to the effect of establishing a Duty-Free Export zone in adjacent Gilgit with the subsequent establishment of industries and skills-training workshops, it is hoped that this development will help accelerate development in the region along with Skardu and other parts of Baltistan. The Aga Khan Foundation is active in developmental projects in the region, and has initiated several projects such as water purification, educational and vocational training centres. In recent years, many in the region have been yearning for greater political representation in the Federal Government of Pakistan. The literacy ratio in Baltistan was very low, approximately 20 percent for males and 3 percent for females. In valleys like Basha, Braldo etc. female literacy was almost non-existent. Health facilities are severely limited and joblessness has compelled many to leave the region over the years. With the construction of the highway along the Indus river and its linkage with the Karakuram Highway has opened up this area and progress during the last twenty years has been rapid and visible. Aga Khan Rural Support Ptogramme (AKRSP) and Marafie Foundation has played a major role in progress of this area. While AKRSP contributed in social mobilization, infrastructure development and agriculture, Marafie Foundation invested in education and health. AKRSP also acted as catalyst for birth of thousands of active community based organizations working in the area in variety of fields. In the field of education the role of Marafie Foundation is a success story. A recent survey by AKRSP shows that the male education today stands at 70% and that of female at 35%. All this has resulted in increase in the per capita income which is now almost at par with the national per capita income. Like the Ladakhis, the Balti are agriculturalists. However, being a mountainous region, availability of cultivable land is scarce. Subsistence farming and animal husbandry are the main sources of livelihood for the Baltis. They grow wheat, barley, millet and buckwheat, and raise goats and sheep for wool, and yaks for hair, meat, milk and skin. These animals are also traded for cash. Horticulture also forms a significant source of income for the Baltis. However, there is only an average of 2 acres (8,100 m2) of land per household available for cultivation. Security issues compel the villagers to store rations for both humans and animals, which is then utilized during the long winters. During the six or seven months of long winter, economic activities virtually cease to exist and people leave for Pakistan to seek job opportunities. Balti staple cuisine includes cha-phe (Tsampa), Ladakhi salt tea (Balti cha), marzan (cooked dough and yak butter); thsodma (greens), balay (noodles cooked with meat), thaltakh (salty cake of refined flour mixed with eggs and butter) and chuli-chhu (apricot juice). Cereals are planted in late spring and at lands with elevations not above 2,500 m, particularly along the Indus River (Sengge Chhu) and Shyok River. During the years when it is relatively calm and peaceful, a modest number of tourists both local and international visit Baltistan, providing much needed financial support. The region lacks major industry. As permanent sources of job opportunities are lacking, thousands of people have left the region either temporarily or on a permanent basis to go to other parts of Pakistan and the Middle East. The re-opening of roads eastwards linking Baltiyul with Ladakh and Kashmir would allow the local economy to improve and thousands of divided families of Ladakh and Baltistan to reunite. Per capita income, which is a quarter of national Pakistani average (US$ 120) may also increase as trade opportunities and tourism catch pace. Religion
Islam came into Baltistan by different scholars from Iran during 15th century A.D. Soon the whole region converted to Shia. During the start of the 19th century, the predominant population converted to other Islamic schools of thought such as Nurbakshia and Sunnis. Today, the Baltis are; Shi'a denomination (52%), Sufia Nurbakhshia (45%) and Sunni sect (3%). Today, Nurbakhshis are found in Baltistan and Ladakh regions of J&K, as well as a small number of Nurbakhshis are native to Iran, Kurdistan and Central Asia. Local Muslims, who converted from Bön-po and Tibetan Buddhism still retain many traits of pre-Islamic Bön and Lamaist rituals, which makes Islam of Baltistan and Ladakh unique from other Muslim societies. Sw****ka (Yung drung) sign is considered auspicious and is carved on wooden planks that can be seen in historical mosques and Khankas. Showing respect to Lha and Lhu (Bön gods) is customary during many village rituals. The Balti, who converted to Islam from Tibetan Buddhism in the 16th century, regard congregation in the Mosques and Khankah as an important religious ritual. The Khankahs are a kind of typical training school to which was introduced by the early saints arrived in the region. The students gain spiritual purity (tazkiah) through these trainings (meditations and contemplations) under well-practiced spiritual guides, who have already attained certain degree of spirituality. Mosques in Baltistan are mainly built in the Tibetan style, though several mosques constructed have wood-finish and decorations of Iranian origin which can also be seen in Ladakh and Kargil. On every Friday, the men folk would generally attend the prayers sometime a little after noon. All Muslims will fast by day during the month of the Ramadan, and a celebration will be held at the end of the celebration.Small pockets of Bön and Tibetan Buddhist believers that amounted up to 3000 people are found in Kharmang valley of Baltistan[3] and in West Kargil. East Ladakh (Leh district and Zanskar) are predominantly Buddhist. Balti
All people living in Baltistan may be referred to as Balti. The Greeks derived Byaltae from (Tibetan: སྦལ་ཏིའི་, Wylie: sbal-ti, which in Tibetan means "water gorge." The historian Ptolemy, also a general in the army of Alexander the Great, had named the region "Byaltae" in his book.[citation needed] In fact, Baltistan is the Persian translation of Baltiyul, "the Homeland of Balti." People of Balti ethnicity are settled on both banks of the river Indus fromKargil in the east to Haramosh in the west, and from Karakoram range in the north to Deosai plains in the south. The Balti ethnicity is primarily Tibetan in origin, with some Dardic admixture. However people migrated to this area in different periods of ancient times on account of different reasons, and after merging in the prevailing Tibetan society, gave birth to a new civilization. All these multi-racial groups speak Balti language, which is a branch of ancient Tibetan. However in some rural areas, the Sheen people still speak Shina language. To develop the Balti language literally, local intellectuals like Ghulam Hassan Lobsang has worked on Balti language. The first Balti Grammar has been written by Ghulam Hassan Lobsang in both English and Urdu versions, i.e. "Balti Grammar" and "Balti English Grammar". The latter was published by Bern University Switzerland in 1995. The Balti have a reputation for being very forbearing, cheerful, and hospitable people. During the Rmakpon dynasty (from 12th century to 1840 A.D.) the Balti invaded Ladakh and Tibet in the east and Gilgit and Chitral many times, thus making these people acknowledge the martial abilities of the Balti. The modern population of Baltistan is a heterogeneous mixture of ethnic groups. Tibetans form the principal ethnic group in the area accounting for 60 per cent of the population. Outside Baltistan, there are several Balti communities located in Pakistan's urban areas further south, notably in Lahore, Islamabad and in Karachi. Script
Balti also refers to the Tibetan Balti script, which was replaced by the Persian script in the 17th century. The language spoken by the entire population of Baltistan is called Balti, an archaic dialect of Tibetan language. At present Balti has been heavily influenced by Turkish andUrdu, and affected by Islamic literature in Persian. As a result, Balti has deviated from the original Tibetan language. The language spoken in Baltistan, generally known as Balti, was originally a Tibetan dialect. According to Professor Jampal Gyathso, a Chinese Scholar and expert in Epic of King Gesar and a Khampa (Tibetan) by origin, the present Balti language has all the linguistic characteristics and roots from the Tibetan language. According to his initial survey Balti resembles more the Kham dialect than other Tibetan dialects of U and Thsang, Amdo, and others. He further suggests that either the first Tibetan settlers of Baltistan could be the Khambas or at least majority of the settlers were Khambas. The people of Baltistan, dubbed as "mini Tibet," are related to the Tibetans and their language is a branch of the Tibetan language, retaining many features of archaic Tibetan pronunciation. The missionary, orientalist and linguist Heinrich August Jäschke (1817–1883) classified Balti as one of the westernmost Tibetan dialects. In his Tibetan–English Dictionary he defines it as "Bal (Balti), the most westerly of the districts in which the Tibetan language is spoken". Many other scholars also are of the view that Balti is a Tibetan dialect and not a separate language from the Tibetan
Recently a number of Balti scholars and social activists have tried to promote the use of the Tibetan Balti script, Yige, with the aim of helping to preserve indigenous Balti and Ladakhi culture and ethnic identity. Following a request from this community, the September 2006 Tokyo meeting of ISO/IEC 10646 WG2 agreed to encode two characters (U+0F6B TIBETAN LETTER KKA and TIBETAN U+0F6C LETTER RRA) in the ISO 10646 and Unicode standards in order to support rendering Urdu loanwords present in modern Balti using Yige script. Like other Tibetan dialects, Balti had no script of its own until Tibetans created a script for their language, introducing it through TibetanLamas and other learned people. In 727 AD, when King Khri Lde-gTsug-Brtan conquered Baltistan and annexed it to his state, the Tibetan script was formally introduced as the official script through government offices, religious books and rock inscriptions. The famous mandalacarving and the Tibetan inscription on a rock in village Manthal near Skardo town, which dates back to early 8th century AD, is one of the best examples of these efforts. Until that time there was no difference between the Tibetan dialects of Lhasa or central Tibet and Baltistan; therefore, the Baltis faced no problem in reciprocal communication and usage. Before the invasion of Tibetans in 727, the official language of both the Palola shahis and the clergy was Brahmi, brought into the area after the 4th legendary Buddhist Conference in Jalandhar. There are still many rock-inscriptions from the 5th and 6th centuries in the Brahmi script. The Tibetans spread their own script with all their zest and zeal. The Tibetan script remained in use among the Balti until the 16th century when the Mullahs persuaded the Balti masses to use the Persian script for Balti. However, there was no endeavour to form fully corresponding Persian letters for Balti. Moreover, when the Rmakpon dynasty rose to its climax in the 16th century AD, it developed a strong political and cultural relationship with the Moghuls of India and used Persian instead of Balti as its official language. With this, the Balti language, including its script, lost its strongest patron. The Dogras of Jammu conquered Baltistan in 1840 AD and annexed it to their state. Since Pakistan gained control of the region in 1948, Urdu words have been introduced into local dialects and languages, including Balti. In modem times Balti has no names or vocabulary for dozens of newly invented and introduced things; instead, Urdu and English words are being used in Balti. BALTISTAN,The land of highest peaks on earth



Baltistan



Map of Baltistan
Baltistan covering an area of 26,000 square kilometer, comprises 5 valleys: Skardu, Khaplu, Shigar, Kharmang and Rondu. The Baltistan is the part of Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. These valleys are very important from the mountaineering, trekking and mountain related adventure activities. The northern territory of Baltistan contains four peak above 8000 meters, such as K-2 (8611-M) (Second highest mountain in the world), Gasherbrum-I (8068-m), Broad Peak (8048-m), and Gaserbrum-II (8035-m), and many other above 7000 meters peaks, such as Masherbrum, Gasherbrum-IV, Muztagh Towers, Latok, Baintha Brakk, Chogolisa, Baltoro Kangri, and many more. K2


Since time began, Baltistan has remained isolated from the rest of the world. It was first mentioned in the annals of an AD 747 Chinese military expedition to aid Ladakh against a threatened invasion from Tibet. Fascinated, the ancient Chinese geographers named it the “Tibet of the Apricots”, because of the abundance of this fruit that grew there, and still does. Long a Buddhist country, Islam was embraced in the fifteenth century and during the Mughal era it was annexed to India. But when Aurangzeb died it soon reverted to its isolated, independent ways, only to come under a succession of local rulers, Dogra, Sikhs and Afghans, finally coming into the Kingdom of Kashmir. At independence in 1947, However, Baltistan chose to join Pakistan, and now the Baltistan is the Part of Pakistan. Within fifteen minutes of taking off from the Islamabad Airport, in PIA scheduled flight, we will be in a virgin world snaking through mountain passes and following emerald ribbons of rivers, the plane will be often lower than the level of the treacherous road. Every turn will brought a breathtaking new vista, and as we will leave habitation behind, we will enter a forest of peaks and nature of such staggering perfection that it flooded one simultaneously with a soaring joy and a stark realization of the absolute insignificance of man. Leaving the plain, the most immediate impression is that of disorientation. The valley and the rock and the desert plains have no likeness to any other landscape, as if the Sahara had been dropped down between massive walls of rock. There are no perspectives. So complete is the circle of mountains everything narrow and the eye is ever confused. Lying within this ring of 5000 meters high mountains that glimmer through the haze in varying shades of purple, grey, and ochre, the jade river Indus snakes sinuously between the ribboned, wind-blown sand dunes close beneath a 200 feet high island of massive rock. It’s here that Skardu straggles along the plateau. From Islamabad most of the Climbing expedition teams, trekking parties and other visitors like to travel on Karakoram Highway. Not until 1978, with the completion of the 170 kilometers long Gilgit-Skardu Road, did Baltistan have any permanent access to the rest of the world, even in 1980s the citizens retained their self-sufficiency and independence, aloof from the twentieth century and its wonders. So formidable in the scale of its colour and texture, savagery and desolation is the Indus gorge out of Skardu that not even Balti’s ventured to cross it. The road to Skardu is one of the most dramatic roads in the world, following the narrow, dark, bleak, and stupendously high ravine of the Indus for mile after mile. Never a blade of gross relieves the monotony of the hostile rock. Only the jade green river, tumbling and foaming in stretches of white water, relieves the grey, brown, sere, and unrelenting walls of boulders- strewn rock, and cliffs. Like its larger sister, the Karakoram Highway, it represents one of the world’s major feats of civil engineering construction and already Skardu, long a Mecca for the high altitude mountaineers, have become a major tourist resort as the coaches, cars, and jeeps flood down the road across more than 20 bridges to the town. No diminutive this, though Baltistan, crowned by the Majesty of K-2, at 8611 meters the world’s second highest mountain, sit an average high of 4500 meters. No relief map or guide book can lead you through this wilderness of lost horizons. There are none. The horizon merge in a tumultuous maze in which west and east, north and south, lurch giddily from one side of the eye to the other in utter confusion. The Skardu is the capital city of Baltistan. Its real attraction is as gateway to the grandest sight in all nature, Concordia, the amphitheater of the ten of the world’s thirty greatest mountains, the adjacent glaciers and peak, and its closeness to Lake Satpara, one of the hidden pearls of Baltistan. At 2314 meters and due to confluence of the Indus and Shigar rivers, this is the capital town of the Baltistan. It has a pleasant climate has been the capital for a long time. In summer dusty winds frequently arise during the afternoon and continue till evening. Scattered among the apricots trees, poplars, willows and bushes are the residences, Government Offices, Banks, hospital, mosques, places, shops, markets and hotels. The shops and markets sales the food items, camping equipments, fur toques, Karakul fez, turbans and flowing togas of rough wool worn by the local inhabitants. Mountaineering and Trekking parties arrive here, stay for a short period and leave as quickly as possible for the mountains. The airport is situated 16 kilometer south-west of the Skardu. The most important monuments in the region is the rock carving of Buddha, some one and half kilometer south on the road to Satpara. It dates back to the 10th century AD. The entire surface of the rock, 8 meter high and some 5 meter wide, is carved with great imagination and skill. At 15th century aqueduct located in the town is an interesting feature to see. The fort of Kharpochu, which stands high up on the rock of Skardu, overlooks the streets of the town. Hotels for tourist are available, as there are many hotels. International/domestic telephone calls are available. The internet facilities are also available. While waiting for a flight, bus, jeep or car, worthwhile diversions include. Going around the eastern end of the Skardu Rock, you come to village of Narsok, where a pure spring emerges from the base of a monolithic rock. The ascent of Skardu rock is quite tough. From Skardu fort there is an extended view over cultivated fields and the Indus River below. Lake Satpara is about 6 kilometers south-west of the Skardu. KHAPLU

At 2355 meter, this historic town lies on the south side of the Shyok River, among innumerable trees on a fertile alluvial plain. The Khaplu is the District Headquarter of the Ganchee District. Facilities include a rest house, shops, and a few hotels and telephone. It is about 103 kilometers east of Skardu and can be reached by bus, van, jeep and car. The ever changing landscapes follow the sandy valley floor, black mountains reflecting in the waters of the Shyok River. On the slopes, little communities have carved their terraced fields and homes out of the mountainside, diverting the waters along a network of ancient irrigation aqueducts. The capital of this valley, distinctively Tibetan in its people and architecture, is spread out along the greenest and broadest bowl of the valley, an arena that for the non-trekker is the key point to of the entire visit to Baltistan. For only in Khaplu, so high and close together are the regions other valleys, do you catch sight of “raison d’ etre” for any visit to Baltistan, its mountains. Here, in the early morning, as the sun slopes above the eastern horizon, its rays burst in a dazzling shower of diamonds on the scintillating peak of mighty 7821 meters high Masherbrum. Khaplu town is the historic base of many voyages of exploration to the mountains in the region of the Karakoram. G.T.Vigne, after whom one of the glaciers south of Concordia is named. had ascended the Saltoro valley from Khaplu in 1838 in his search for the Saltoro Pass. Some 70 years later the great Tom Longstaff, accompanied by Arthur Neve and A.M. Slingaby, repeated the journey and found the pass at the head of Bilafond glacier; they then crossed and descended to the Siachen glacier. And it was from Khaplu that James Waller in 1935 with John Hunt and four others reached the Kondus valley and made an attempt to climb Saltoro Kangri (7742-m). Waller returned in 1938 with Graham Brown and two others, ascended the Hushe valley and pitched a base camp at the junction of the two torrents draining the Masherbrum and Gondogoro Glacier, from there they attempted to ascend Masherbrum (7821-M) from the South. These valleys and glacier areas had also benn visited from Khaplu by the Workmans in 1911 and 1912. Khaplu today is still the gateway to many adventurous treks, most of which lead to the north side of the Shyok River. The river is crossable from Khaplu by a jeep. The other bridge is located some 10 kilometer east of Khaplu, a little beyond Surmo where the Shyok valley floor narrows down considerably. The walk to Surmo along the river bed is quite easy. The Saling Bridge and Surmo bridge are the only other ways to approach the valley of Hushe, Saltoro, Dansum, etc. It incorporates many famous passes such as Masherbrum La and Gondogoro la. SHIGAR:




At 2316 and some 32 kilometers from Skardu, Shigar is picturesquely set in a lush green valley and enjoy a pleasant climate. The town is not only greener and richer than Skardu, but it has appearance of being older. Shigar was once the capital of a strong local Raja and its fortress was a symbol of his power. Games of Polo and archery were frequent. One can still see several old houses with beautiful architectural designs. There are a few mosques built in Tibetan style, which carved panels round the wooden doors. A few shops built of wood comprising the bazaar are found near the mosque. The houses of old Shigar are build distinctly in Tibetan style. The modern buildings, such as hospital, rest house, government staff quarters, etc are built round old Shigar. Ancient Buddhist settlements dating back to the 8th and 10th centuries have been discovered here recently; they contain a monastery and thousands of inscriptions and rock carvings. The discovery of a Chinese pagoda with inscriptions indicates friendly relation with China in olden days. Shigar is the gateway to many adventurous treks that lead over famous glaciers and the base of numerous high peaks. The wide Shigar valley is formed by the confluence of the Braldu and Basna rivers, about 33 kilometers upstream from Shigar. It is watered by several great glaciers such as the Baltoro, Biafo Chogo Lungma, Panmah and Chogtoi; and this vast region contains 5 of the world’s highest peaks, K-2, the Gasherbrum group, Broad Peak and Masherbrum are some of them. It incorporates many famous passes such as, Sokha La, Skam La, Hisper Pass, Naushik La, Braldu La, Sim La, Muztagh Pass and Gondogoro la. Once frequented by local people and traders. Some of passes have become strictly technical ascent or have gone out of use due to the melting, cracking or other changes in the pattern of the glaciers. The best way to reach the town from Skardu is to hire a Car, Jeep or van. There are clean and comfortable hotels, rest house and camping site for stop-lovers. Peaks in Baltistan Pakistan
8000 METER PEAKS IN BALTISTAN


S.No Name of the Peak Height in Meters
01 K-2 8611
02 Gasherbrum-I 8068
03 Broad Peak 8047
04 Gasherbrum-II 8035


K-2



Broad Peak



Gasherbrum-I



Gasherbrum-II



G2 & G4


7000 METER PEAKS IN BALTISTAN

S.No Name of the Peak Height in Meters
LOBSANG GROUP
01 Muztagh Tower 7284
02 Muztagh Tower 7279
LATOK GROUP
03 Baintha Brakk (M) 7285
04 Latok-I 7145
05 Latok-II 7108
06 Latok(I-W) 7100
K2 GROUP
07 Skyang Kangri (I) 7357
08 Skil Brum 7350
09 Skyang Kangri (II) 7345
10 Summa Ri 7286
BROAD GROUP
11 Broad Peak (N) 7387
GASHERBRUM GROUP
12 Gasherbrum-III 7952
13 Gasherbrum-IV 7925
14 Gasherbrum (E) 7772
15 Gasherbrum (N) 7500
16 Un named Peak 7310
17 Gasherbrum (V) 7133
18 Gaserbrum (V-MD) 7120
19 Gasherbrum (SW) 7069
20 Gasherbrum-VI 7004
SIA GROUP
21 Sia Kangri 7422
22 Sia Kangri-II 7325
23 Sia Kangri-IV 7315
24 Sia Kangri-III 7273
CHOGO LUNGMA GROUP
25 Spantik 7027
MASHERBRUM GROUP
26 Masherbrum (E) 7822
27 Masherbrum (W) 7806
27 Yermand Kangri 7163
28 Mandu Peak (E) 7127
29 Mandu Peak (W) 7081
CHOGOLISA GROUP
30 Chogolisa (SW) 7668
31 Chogolisa (NE) 7654
32 Baltoro Kangri 7300
33 Baltoro Kangri (II) 7270
34 Baltoro Kangri (IV) 7265
35 Ice Dom 7150
SALTORO GROUP
36 Saltoro Kangri (I) 7742
37 Saltoro Kangri (II) 7705
EAST OF HUSHE VALLEY GROUP
38 K-6 (W) 7100
39 Link Sar 7041
40 Link Sar (N) 7000


Gasherbrum-IV



6000 METER PEAKS IN BALTISTAN

S.No Name of the Peak Height in Meters
01 Baintha Brakk (SE) 6960
02 Latok-III 6946
03 Baintha Brakk-II 6600
04 Baintha Brakk-III 6500
05 Latok-IV 6456
06 Latok (IV-SE) 6450
07 Uzun Brakk 6422
08 Bullah 6294
09 Choricho (M) 6756
10 Choricho (III) 6643
11 Choricho (II) 6631
12 Payu 6610
13 Uli Biaho (I-SW) 6417
14 Uli Biaho (I-NE) 6408
15 Choricho (IV) 6400
16 Uli Biaho-II 6353
17 Uli Biaho Tower 6109
18 Haina Blak Tower 6000
19 Unnamed Peak Paiyu Group 6000
20 Unnamed Peak Payu Group 6000
TRANGO GROUP
21 Kruksum (S) 6650
22 Kruksum (N) 6600
23 Trango Ri (II) 6545
24 Trango Ri (I) 6452
25 Kruksum (E) 6300
26 Trango Ri (III) 6300
27 Trango Ri (IV) 6300
28 Great Trango (I) 6286
29 Nameless Tower 6239
30 Great Trango (II) 6237
31 Great Trango (III) 6231
32 Munk 6150
LOBSANG GROUP
33 Biale 6729
34 Black Tooth 6719
35 Biange 6431
36 Lhunkgka Ri 6307
37 Unnamed Peak 6300
38 Biange Peak 6271
39 Lobsang 6225
40 Un named Peak 6100
41 Un named Peak 6085
42 Un named Peak 6050
43 Un named Peak 6050
44 Un named Peak 6040
45 Un named Peak 6024
45 Un named Peak 6020
46 Un named Peak 6007
47 Un named Peak 6001
48 Un named Peak 6000
K2 GROUP
49 Un named Peak 6940
50 Un named Peak 6859
51 Angel 6858
52 Un named Peak 6820
53 Un named Peak 6800
54 Un named Peak 6700
55 Un named Peak 6640
56 Un named Peak 6406
57 Nela peak 6394
58 Un named Peak 6379
59 Un named Peak 6350
60 Moni Peak 6300
61 Marble Peak 6256
62 New Cristal Peak 6252
63 Cristal Peak 5913
64 Un named Peak 6100
65 UN-named Peak 6060
66 Steste Peak 6001
BROAD GROUP
67 Un named Peak 6934
68 Un-named Peak 6913
69 Un named Peak 6806
70 Un named Peak 6806
71 Un named Peak 6805
72 Un named Peak 6700
73 Un named Peak 6450
74 Un named Peak 6444
75 Un named Peak 6394
GASHERBRUM GROUP
76 Un named Peak 6984
77 Gasherbrum(V-NW) 6980
78 Gasherbrum (V-N) 6950
79 Un named Peak 6936
80 Gasherbrum Twins 6912
81 Gasherbrum (V-E) 6900
82 Un named Peak 6753
83 Un-named Peak 6600
84 Un-named Peak 6550
85 Un named Peak 6218
SOUSBAN GROUP
86 Ganchen 6462
87 Susban Brakk 6413
88 Hikmul 6300
89 Un named 6123
90 Un named Peak 6066
91 Gama Soka Lumbu 6282
92 Un named Peak 6000
KHOSER GUNGE GROUP
93 Khoser Gunge 6401
MANGO GUSOR GROUP
94 Mango Gusor 6288
MASHERBRUM GROUP
95 Biarchedi (I) 6810
96 Biarchedi (II) 6781
97 Biarchedi (III) 6710
98 Biarchedi (IV) 6650
99 Serac Peak 6614
100 Hunch Back 6400
101 Biarchedi (V) 6362
102 Un named Peak 6350
103 Urdukas Peak (I) 6320
104 Un named Peak 6300
105 Urdukas Peak (II) 6280
106 Un named Peak 6279
107 Un named Peak 6251
108 Un named Peak 6250
109 Biarchedi (VI) 6236
110 Un named Peak 6200
111 Un named Peak 6170
112 Urdukas Peak (III) 6130
113 Un named Peak 6100
114 Un named Peak 6095
115 Biarchedi ((VII) 6010
116 Un named Peak 6030
117 Mitre Peak 6025
118 Un named Peak 6000
CHOGOLISA GROUP
119 Kaberi Peak 6950
120 Khumul Gri 6851
121 Kondus Peak 6750
122 Khumul Gri (II) 6706
123 Un named Peak 6700
124 Khumul Gri (III) 6674
124 Tasa Brakka 6600
125 Un named Peak 6600
126 Un named Peak 6600
127 Pioneer Peak 6550
128 Khumul Gri (VI) 6350
129 Laila 6096
DANSAM GROUP
130 Dansam 6666
131 Un named Peak 6450
EAST OF THALLE VALLEY GROUP
132 Honboro 6459
133 Un named Peak 6100
134 Un named Peak 6000
EAST OF HUSHE VALLEY GROUP
135 K-7 6934
136 Un named Peak 6858
137 Un named Peak 6568
138 Kapura 6544
139 Un named Peak 6500
140 Changi 6500
141 Drafey Khar (Drifka) 6444
142 Un named Peak 6400
143 Un named Peak 6325
144 Namika 6295
145 KHURDOPIN GROUP
146 Lakpe Lawo Brakk 6593




Trango Nameless Tower




Marble Peak




Laila Peak




Angel Peak
Treks in Baltistan



TREKS IN BALTISTAN

1-BALTORO-GONDOGORO-HUSHE:
Askole- Concordia, K-2 B.C, Gasherbrum B.C, & return by the same route, or cross Gondogoro Pass or Vigne Pass, K-7 B.C, Skardu or vice versa
Restricted Zone: Trekking Permit is required from Ministry of Tourism Islamabad.

2-BALTORO-MASHERBRUM PASS-HUSHE:
Skardu-Askole-Concordia, K-2 B.C, Gasherbrum B.C, Masherbrum Pass, K-7 B.C,-Hushe-Skardu or vice versa
Restricted Zone: Trekking Permit is required from Ministry of Tourism Islamabad.

3-PANMAH GLACIER – SIM PASS:
Skardu-Panmah Glacier-Chring Glacier-Drenmang Glacier-Nobande Sobande Glacier-Simgang Glacier-Chaktoi Glacier-Sim Pass-Simgeng Glacier-Snow Lake& down to Askole via Biafo Glacier or to Nagar via Hispar Glacier, or vice versa. Restricted Zone: Trekking Permit is required from Ministry of Tourism Islamabad.

4-HISPAR PASS:
Skardu-Askole-Biafo Glacier-Snow Lake-Hspar Pass-Hisper Glacier-Nagar-Gilgit or vice versa
Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

5-LUKPO PASS:
Skardu-Askole-Biafo Glacier-Snow Lake-Simgang Glacier-Lukpo Pass-Braldu Glacier-Shimshal Pass-Shimshal village-Gilgit or vice versa
Restricted Zone: Trekking Permit is required from Ministry of Tourism Islamabad.

6-SOKH PASS:
Skardu-Askole-Biafo Glacier-Snow Lake-Sokh La-Sokh Glacier-Sosbun Glacier-Hikmul Pass-Hoh Lungma Glacier-Arandu-Skardu or vice versa. Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

7-HARAMOSH PASS:
Skardu-Arandu-Chogo Lungma Glacier-Haramosh La-Dache-Sassi-Gilgit or Skarduor vice versa. Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

8-STAK PASS:
Skardu-Stak-Stak Pass-Ganto Pass-Arandu-Chogo Lungma Glacier-Hramosh Pass-Sassi-Skardu or Gilgit or vice versa. Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

9-SOSBUN VALLEY:
Skardu-Chakpong-Ho-Sosbun B.C,-Sosbun Brakk B.C,-Hoh Lungma Glacier-Hikmul Pass-Doko-Skardu or vice versa. Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

10-SKORO PASS:
Skardu-Askole-Skoro Pass-Shigar-Skardu or vice versa
Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

11-THALEE PASS:
Skardu-Shigar-Thalle Pass-Bukma-Doghani to Hushe or Skardu or vice versa. Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

12-HUSHE VALLEY:
Skardu-Hushe-Masherbrum B.C,-Shaicho-Gondogoro B.C,-K-7 B.C,-Hushe-Skardu or vice versa. Restricted Zone: Trekking Permit is required from Ministry of Tourism Islamabad.

13-HUSHE-ALING:
Skardu-Hushe-Aling Glacier & back to Hushe via same route
Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required.

14-ACROSS DEOSAI:
Skardu-Deosai Plateau-Chillim-Astore-Gilgit or vice versa
Open Zone: No Trekking Permit is required. Copyright by Afzal
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